Hi slhouette,
There are a few different things going on, which I think we need to clarify; to make sure we are on the same page.
In the video, if I am understanding this correctly, they start with simulated spheres/geometries and use the UVs to map the knitted curves' geometry (which is flat / in XZ plane to the 3D spherical, simulated meshes.
So they already have a simulation and then just perform procedural geometry operations to get the knitted look.
The video really has nothing to do with simulation itself as much as I can tell.
With this Houdini deformer, when I had the problem of pattern pieces flattening out, I strengthened the stiffness of the Weld constraints - the welds sewing the pattern pieces together - and it maintained the shape.
I do not see a deformer in the video, i.e. looks to alread be starting with simulated meshes that are baked out to an alembic.
Let's take a step back...
What does the simulation see when you provide a mesh:
We obviously have the tessellation, i.e. P amount of points, T amount of triangles (or quads) and their connectivity.
But beyond that, a Cloth has soft constraints, i.e. Stretch, Bend, Surface, etc.
For those soft constraints, we need to extract/build our reference data, meaning each edge has a length, each triangle/quad has a surface area, each edge also connects two triangles (or quads) and we can calculate the angle between those two triangles / quads.
This data is what we call the Reference. So when you set Stretch Extension to 1.5, you say that each edge cannot extend more than 50% past the length it had in your reference mesh (or start mesh if you do not provide a separate reference mesh). All subject to convergence, of course.
Normally, Start and Reference Meshes need to have the same tessellation (i.e. same number of points, triangles, connectivity).
Carbon Tailored mode is a specific Cloth Model in Carbon where you have a 3D welded Start Pose, and a Reference Pose that is made from flat panels, i.e. the number of points is not the same.
Internally, and that's the magic of Tailored Cloth Model, we are able to use the metrics from the flat reference panels and apply them to the 3D Cloth mesh.
What that means is that, as you have noticed, all angles in the mesh are flattened (as the reference panels are flat), and all edge lengths / surface areas are extracted from the 2D panels as well.
This gives you two powerful features:
1) You can simulate using the original metrics from Marvelous, i.e. even if your dress stretches to twice the length in Marvelous, Carbon will be able to use the panel data in Tailored mode and drape from there, i.e. we do not apply gravity twice.
2) Having flat references in the XY plane, we now have a space where we can define anisotropy, i.e. Warp, Weft, and Bias.
Just to summarize, Tailored mode doesn't mean that we use some kind of deformer to map the flat meshes onto the 3D Start Mesh / Simulation.
It is a Cloth mode, where the internal Physics engine takes the references (edge lengths, triangle areas) from the flat panels and applies them to the 3D mesh.
Now, to change the topic:
If you are after let's say something like those deformable balls in the video, I would try 2 things:
1) Apply some Surface Pressure to the Cloths. This is a quick and easy way to make something look like an inflated balloon, ball, etc. People have used that for balloons, hair, beards, puffy jackets, etc.
2) Use a Rigid Welding to stiffen the geometry. We have a few examples in our documentation, like example_tires.hip or example_rubber_cogs.hip (same example are in Maya as well; obvious .mel files).
I hope this helps make things clearer.
Cheers,
Sebastian